So You Want to Support Pollinators – Part 1

As more information becomes available about pollinator declines (and insects in general), people are inspired to think about how they can make changes to their landscapes in support of them. I’ve agreed to give a talk this summer about this topic so, if you don’t mind, I’m going to use the next several blog entries to flesh out what to say to people who are eager to listen.

Monarch on blue mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum) in the fall

Benefits – people want to know why it’s worthwhile to put the effort into choosing specific plants for pollinators. What pollinators are likely to benefit? Is there any other reason to consider doing this?

1. Bees – while many flowers can support bees, there are some flowers that especially support native bees and others that are more nutritious and healthy for bees in general.  I loved finding the southeastern blueberry bee in my garden several years ago. In addition, the concept of native bees as distinct from honey bees is getting more attention. Besides what you plant, your pollinator garden design can increase your support of native bees.
2. Butterflies – adult butterflies enjoy many flowers while butterfly (and moth) caterpillars have more specific requirements and these requirements are usually native plants. If you’d like to have more butterflies swirling around your garden, planting what the caterpillars need is a way to keep ‘em coming.
3. Birds – supporting birds is a bonus side benefit of pollinator gardens. Seed-eating birds like goldfinches are grateful that you planted coneflowers and sunflowers. Insect-eating birds (and parents with hungry chicks) enjoy some of the bugs (that is, pollinators) who visit your garden.

Megachile bee on Rudbeckia

Southeastern blueberry bee

Basics – it all comes down to several key choices when deciding how to populate your pollinator garden. You’ll want food and shelter. When it comes to food, you’ll want it to be pesticide free and you’ll want a selection of both host as well as nectar plants. I like to say that the nectar plants bring them in and the host plants convince them to stay (and lay eggs). Plant choice makes a difference:

1. What are host plants? Another term is ‘food’ plants and they are the plants on which butterflies, moths and other bugs will lay their eggs. One of the most well-known examples is the Monarch butterfly and its host plant milkweed (Asclepias sp.) and related plants in the milkweed family (Asclepiadaceae). You have two options for where to locate your host plants:

1. In your pollinator garden – these are chosen specifically to be a part of your pollinator garden and are usually perennial plants: the milkweeds for Monarchs, the pussytoes for the American ladies, pea family members for skippers, passion-vines and violets for fritillaries, etc.
2. Near your pollinator garden – these include trees and shrubs that are located in the area around your garden: spicebush for spicebush butterflies, sassafras and tuliptree for tiger swallowtails, plus oaks, cherries, elms and others.

2. What are nectar plants? These are the flowering plants. Some might flower only in one season (spring/summer/fall) but return each year so they are considered perennials. Annual plants may flower throughout several seasons and are generally showier. Over time you might observe that different bees and butterflies like different flowers; this is usually because of the length of their tongue:

1. Short-tongued bees, small bees, and small butterflies like skippers use smaller flowers and flowers with shorter floral tubes. These include the flowers of milkweeds, asters, goldenrods, coreopsis, sunflowers, mints, etc. Some flowers are simply for crawling inside: turtleheads and penstemons make for great bee-watching as bumble bees scoot in and out of the flower itself.
2. Long-tongued bees and butterflies with long proboscis (as well as hummingbirds) prefer flowers with long tubes like cardinal flower, sages, native azaleas and vines like native honeysuckle, crossvine, and trumpet creeper. 
3. You'll want a variety of flowers to satisfy different pollinators.

Bumble bee shares coneflower with caterpillar

Andrena bee on hawthorn

Next week we’ll talk about How to Start, including evaluating your space and conditions as well as choosing your plants. Part 3 will cover implementation.